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So I’ve been listening to Yeezus for almost a week now. Some people love it. Some people hate it. Some people just repeat opinions they hear on Pitchfork. I’m not one of those people. To succinctly summarize Kanye’s problem: he lacks credibility. While lecturing us on materialism, he name checks Alexander Wang all while playing designer with his very own weak-ass ready-to-wear collection. Kanye, you wish you were Alexander Wang. Kanye, you wish you were Riccardo Tisci. (Or you wish you were in Riccardo Tisci allegedly whatever.) How can a man that is shamelessly reproducing with the Kueen of Konsumption lecture anyone? Kanye maintains his trademark anger on this album, but on Yeezus it feels particularly misdirected. For all his race-based indignation, I suspect the last time Kanye West felt legitimately persecuted is when Alber Elbaz had the good sense to deny his ass from the Lanvin show. My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy is a really incredible and incomparable record. I don’t expect every record Kanye makes to eclipse BDTF, but Yeezus isn’t at all fun. Kanye borrows from a somewhat diverse (if predictable) musical cannon ranging from Billie Holliday (vis-à-vis Nina Simone) to Charlie Wilson, but the vocal layering never quite gels. It feels very mash-up and less integrative than his previous application of this well-worn technique. Kanye fancies himself a pioneer and taste-maker, but his private and personal decisions of the last year prove he’s no visionary. Yeezus ain’t all that innovative. Kim is so over, and bathed in her low-budget, mainstream media-whore stank Kanye’s all but over too.
Daiane Conterato and Kel Markey for The Row.Alexander WangNina Ricci Yigal AzrouëlLanvinDerek LamGucciCostume National
Nina Ricci CelineAlexander WangGivenchyNanette LeporePrabal Gurung
Rachel arrived in New York and fussed with the final touches to the collection. Jessica Iredale from Women’s Wear Daily arrived for a private preview. Zoe described the collection to Iredale and not-so-subtly dropped the sex of her unborn child in the mix. Interesting PR strategy.Overall, the color in the collection is off. The camel isn’t quite right. The gold buttons are a bit too garish. It does feel very Studio 54 Halston-y and therefore true to Rachel’s aesthetic. The larger problem is that her viewpoint is predictable and one-note.We all agree that creatively Zoe isn’t in the same stratosphere as Alexander Wang, right? Put it this way – you’ve got $400 bucks are you gonna buy Wang, or are you going to buy the Rachel Zoe Collection? Ask Lauren fucking Conrad.
Zoe themed with clichés like “the Parisian Girl” and “the London Girl” and “the Uptown Chic Girl.” The buyers and editors humored her. Nobody’s gonna to tell a pregnant woman her debut collection sucks, even in this cut-throat fashist crowd.The lemming buyers must have liked what they saw because more than one high-end department store scooped up the collection. A QVC sell-through is one thing, but can Rachel attract a high-end shopper? In Zoe’s case, what she lacks in design talent she overcompensates for in reality show exposure. We’ll see how the collection sells with its well-timed commercial release.
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