Went to the high priestess of skincare again today and realized I’ve been over-exfoliating. I attributed the downturn in my skin’s appearance to tremendous stress. A demanding life taxes the skin for sure, but I shoulder partial blame as a result of my over zealous exfoliation routine.
Too frequent or vigorous exfoliation can cause inflammation and over-active oil glands. This extra oil paired with extra stress results in extra unhappy skin. 
I learned my lesson, and I’m taking it easy. The wise and generous Joyce Bunch of La Boe Salon hooked me up with an amazing array of products like Facial Cleansing Gélee, a Fortifying Toner, an incredible Daily O2 Optimizing Creme, an ALA Eye & Neck Lifting Creme, and a Calendula Crème for day. After applying the products as advised, my skin already feels more balanced and less aggravated.
If you are experiencing a breakout resurgence, reevaluate your routine. What worked at twenty years old may need some tweaking at thirty. If you find yourself layering one harsh product over another and working a physical exfoliation program too, it might be doing you more harm than good. Try dialing it back a bit and see if your skin doesn’t positively respond. 
I get a lot of sunscreen inquiries, but haven’t loved any one product enough to drop a full-on endorsement on my faithful DC readers. Either the SPF isn’t high enough, the finish is too greasy, or the product rubs off and burns my eyes. For example, I really wanted to like this Alba Organics SPF 30, but in addition to causing eye irritation, it migrates and you end up tasting it. This creates a grossly unpleasant and uncomfortable experience, especially during any kind of physical activity.
In response to dissatisfaction with all the obvious big players (Neutrogena, Coppertone, Aveeno), the pendulum swung way to the other end of the spectrum, and I invested in this Peter Thomas Roth Instant Mineral SPF 30. The plastic end houses peachy colored powder that dispenses through the brush. First off, when the product arrived it was difficult to tell if any actual powder trickled down through the bristles. I pulled off the end and dumped half the product on the floor. At around $30 bucks (on clearance now as low as $12), $15 was wasted by this careless accident – super annoying for sure! Can’t really blame PTR, but the mistake soured my overall impression.
The powder formulation skirts the typical perils of cream or oil sunscreen as mentioned above. It doesn’t run into the eyes or mouth. Instant mineral isn’t greasy, and it doubles as a loose powder by providing a matte finish. The main drawback is it is difficult to tell if you’ve achieved adequate coverage. Furthermore, like most other sunscreens, it sweats off. I don’t hate this product, but it is most useful as a scalp sunscreen. It doubles as a dry shampoo and crown protector. Sun-roof and convertible babies, this one is for you. 
Of all the sunscreens tested (far more than discussed here), Ocean Potion Face SPF45 Clear Zinc Oxide is my favorite. Unlike many carcinogenic sunscreen ingredients readily absorbed into the blood stream and linked to hormone disruption, zinc oxide is an inorganic compound which provides complete UVB/UVA protection, has anti-inflammatory properties, and is considered a safe sunscreen ingredient. It is also about the only sunblock approved by the FDA for children under 6 months of age. This particular light weight cream absorbs easily and does NOT leave that weird white film many of us associate with standard zinc oxide sunscreens. The best part? This stuff is very reasonably priced. Find this one ounce jar widely available for less than $2, and with a little research, bargain hunters can track it down for only $.67! 
Awhile back RHNY‘s Alex enjoyed dermaplaning (and a chastising) and it looked really interesting. Basically dermaplaning is an intense glamour shave with a sharp razorblade. The process removes fine hairs, dead skin cells, and excess oil on the skin’s surface.
A local spa I’ve been meaning to try had a special on a dermaplaning facial. Why not, right?
Many of you will love, love, love dermaplaning. It has been around forever. The simple procedure is safe and noninvasive. The visible results are better than anything you’ll find in a bottle.
The dermaplaning removed all kinds of gross stuff that daily exfoliators can’t reach. Less expensive, noisy, and dusty than microdermabrasion, dermaplaning is superior for immediately improving skin texture and appearance.
After the dermaplaning, the esthetician applied a series of treatments including a customized peel. The word “peel” especially when combined with “chemical” sounds dramatic, but there several acids of various intensities such as salicylic, glycolic, and lactic which can be costumized into a buffered cocktail. She finished up with a standard facial routine, steaming, extractions, and the layering of several delicious products to seal in goodness. She also sent me home with some excellent samples from IS Clinical.
Four to five days out, distressed areas are still gently flaking and uncovering renewed skin. Texture continues to improve; discoloration and lines are less evident. Makeup glides on and less is needed overall.
I’m converted. For less than $100, I saw far more dramatic results with this one visit than I ever have using an entire bottle of $100 cream consistently everyday. I’m pro DIY whenever possible, but sometimes a professional’s touch warrants the investment.
If you are interested but intimidated by professional treatments, dermaplaning is a great place to start. The service is relatively affordable, relaxing, and delivers pretty dramatic results with no downtime.
StriVectin was one of the first medico-prestige brands to hit the scene about eight years ago, but I never really got on board because frankly the word “StriVectin” sounds too much like a herpes treatment.
In the service of finding an effective product to combat hyperpigmentation, enter StriVectin Overnight Facial Resurfacing Serum. StriVectin claims this serum “gently and effectively resurfaces the skin with results starting in as little as a week while promoting visibly healthier skin, with a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles within 28 days.”
Pinkish clear and lightly fragranced, this serum dries quickly and leaves the skin feeling tight. Only those with the oiliest of skin would find this product adequately moisterizing on its own. Most serums are not intended as all-in-one products, so best not to go in with that expectation.
This product is at best mediocre and not worth the nearly sixty dollar asking price. The best thing about it is the packaging. The glass bottle and dropper are both high quality, as demonstrated by the precise control the user has over the amount of product dispensed. Other companies should take note – product waste resulting from poor package design is extremely frustrating and unforgivable. 
After 28 days of religious use, it is time to reveal the results of the Kinerase C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment experiment. Kinerase C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment makes the following claims: 1) noticeably younger-looking skin in 28 days, 2) reduces the appearance of wrinkles by 34.9%, 3) improves additional signs of aging. Let’s break these down shall we?
Noticeably younger-looking skin in 28 days. Noticeable to whom exactly? The product delivers general improvements in skin texture, but I doubt anyone other than the user would notice the mostly imperceptible changes.
Reduces the appearance of wrinkles by 34.9%. I have to call bullshit on this one. In actuality, 11% is a generous characterization of the wrinkle reduction capabilities of this product.
Improves additional signs of aging. This is a pretty broad and vague claim, but “additional signs of aging” includes (at a minimum) a reduction in hyper-pigmentation, improved texture, and less breakouts. C8 does little to nothing for hyper-pigmentation or discoloration. Kinerase improves skin texture and make-up glides on beautifully, but the moisturizing properties are insufficient to make it an all-in-one complete product. As for breakouts, incidentally, yes, Kinerase will help, but acne relief isn’t the targeted aim of this product.
In sum, Kinerase C8 is a pretty decent product and a good way to work the benefits of kinetin, a semi-rare ingredient, into your regime. When taking into consideration the hefty price though, many of you may be disappointed by the lack of dramatic results.
By day fifteen, a major purge begins and weird impurities emerge from the cheeks and jaw line. This creates a serious temptation to extract, but self-control is the order of the day. A hen-pecked look just won’t do for an event this Friday.
On day seventeen, met up with a friend who described my face as “glowy.” One more night of treatment must eliminate any remaining imperfections.
Today is the big day and skin is looking pretty great, but four days (or 20) was barely enough time to make that happen. After sweating whether or not C8 has the power to uncover the freshness, it is obvious that there just isn’t enough resurfacing action in this product when used alone.
After stumbling in inebriated, it is a wonder the treatment even made it on last night. As a result of its application, my face looks better than I feel.
No longer able to resist, my own lack of will power caused reaggravation. This episode confirmed my previous suspicions that Kinerase C8 Intensive Treatment does not make an ideal spot treatment.
After three weeks, skin still feels and looks better immediately after application, but cumulative results are negligible to non-existent. Next week will conclude the experiment, and perhaps the true test of Kinerase will be whether it is missed when it is gone.
This week, the resurfacing benefits of Kinerase C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment kicked in. By the eighth day, one spot basically vanished and the other is flaking off. No new redness or inflammation has developed. The next morning, make-up applies effortlessly. By day nine, cumulative results seem like a meaningful possibility.
Skin is imparted with a pearlescent quality on day ten. The treatment improves skin texture, making it appear different, better, smoother, and more even. By day eleven, façade looks better than it has in a while. Skin feels cool to the touch, and the under eye skin nourished.
Noticeable flaking in some areas triggers the need for daily physical exfoliation – an absolute necessity for uncovering the sought-after freshness.
Over the final two days of the second week, C8′s purging impurities, but it hasn’t done a lot for reducing the appearance of fine lines or hyper-pigmentation. At what amounts to (conservatively) $2 a day for a 28 day treatment, the next two weeks must bring more than imperceptible improvements to justify Kinerase’s expense. 

Kinerase claims that C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment creates younger looking skin in 28 days. The active ingredients are essentially Kinetin, Vitamin C, Vitamin A, white tea, and Acetyl Octapeptide 3.
Days 1-7, average application: 5 pumps
Truthfully, after going in for some regrettable extractions last night, this morning’s face still shows the evidence. While each morning skin texture looks better than the night before, there have yet to be much in the way of cumulative results. So far it has been the same two steps forward, one step back when it comes to Kinerase C8. Day five, the re-aggravated hot spots have not completely subsided, but the overall skin tone appears more even. No new blemishes have emerged since treatment has commenced. Though it contains vitamin A, it is not a strong exfoliator. This serum is calming, but not the most “active” product when it comes to skin resurfacing.
On day six, woke up wishing this stuff was a bit more emollient. Stubborn spots still present, but hyper-pigmentation appears less noticeable. Hot spots chilled out overnight. After the seven days, there is notable improvement in skin texture to the touch. To make Kinerase C8 worth the investment, the next seven days must bring a marked improvement in visible skin texture.